12. Scent.
Indie fragrance brands with strong staying power.
Mmmmmmm, what’s that smell? The best compliment is being told that you smell amazing. Just ask Rihanna.
Scent is also the closest thing we have to time travel. Olfaction is intrinsically linked to the limbic system, the part of the brain responsible for emotions and memory. This connection explains why certain smells can instantly transport us back to a specific moment in time or evoke strong emotional responses.
Can you remember your first fragrance? Mine was ex’cla•ma’tion. Every girl who grew up in the 90s remembers the iconic black-and-white punctuation-shaped bottle, the powdery and floral notes, and the strong overtone of alcohol. But thinking beyond perfume, my childhood was a mix of candy-scented erasers, Dr. Pepper lip balms, and drugstore nail polish.
I grew up in my mother’s hair salon. It was filled with constant busyness and the chattering of women serious about their gossip, their beauty, and their ‘grown folks business.’ I remember zig-zagging between each station, warm steam visibly rising from curling irons, shaping perfect coils into freshly washed hair, layers of sweet pomade from bottles of African Pride tracing the meticulous and geometric squares of exposed scalp between each long extension braid, the smell of Dudley’s Q hair relaxer smoothed down by the back of a black rat-tailed comb, and running through perfumed clouds of finishing spray as chairs swiveled around, 180 degrees, to face the mirror for the final reveal.
The final stop was up front at my mom’s station, the General’s station by the window, to grab change from her bag for the vending machine. The smell of Wrigley’s gum at the bottom of a soft leather purse—the dance of sugary powder and resin mingling with the nipped freshness of mint, the sharp cool of zinc and copper pennies, and the faintest hint of beeswax from a tube of lipstick, all enveloped by the wild gaminess of hide. If someone asked me to describe what beauty smells like. It would be that.
All of these different scent combinations are stored deep and, when unlocked, transport me right back to those times like it was yesterday.
By no means a professional, I recently took a five-week course titled Technique and Language of Perfumery at Pratt University. Over the course of a month, I learned the basics–how to identify natural raw materials and the technical components of composition. Today, I’ll try my best to impart what I learned about perfumery, give you a better understanding of scent categories, and set you on your own journey to play with layering fragrances and choose the right scent for you.
A Nose Knows.
Perfumery, an old-world art form, has captivated humans for centuries. From the lavish scents of ancient Egypt to the modern fragrances that define status and personal style, the world of scent and perfumery is rich and complex.
The more recent history of perfume is closely tied to the town of Grasse in the south of France, which is renowned as the world's perfume capital. Grasse's association with fragrance dates back to the 16th century, when the town's glove makers began to scent their leather goods to mask the unpleasant odors of the tanning process. This practice led to the development of perfumed gloves, which became highly fashionable among the European aristocracy.
The mild climate and fertile soil of Grasse have made it an ideal location for growing fragrant flowers and plants, such as jasmine, rose, lavender, and orange blossom. By the 18th century, the cultivation and extraction of these raw materials had become a major industry in Grasse, with the town's perfumers perfecting techniques for capturing the essence of these flowers.
Many of today’s great noses are still classically trained in Grasse. In the fragrance industry, a 'nose' is a term used to describe a perfumer, an expert who creates and blends scents. These individuals possess an extraordinary sense of smell and a deep understanding of fragrance composition. The role of a nose is both an art and a science, requiring creativity to craft unique scents and technical knowledge to understand the chemistry of different fragrance ingredients.
A nose works with a palette of thousands of raw materials, ranging from natural extracts to synthetic compounds, to create harmonious and complex fragrances.
The process involves extraction, blending, and aging.
Extraction: Essential oils and aromatic compounds are extracted from natural sources using methods like steam distillation, solvent extraction, or cold pressing.
Blending: Perfumers carefully blend top, middle, and base notes to create a complex fragrance profile. Top notes are the initial scents perceived; middle notes form the heart of the fragrance, and base notes provide depth and longevity.
Aging: Like fine wine, fragrances often benefit from aging. This allows the components to meld and mature, enhancing the scent's complexity.
A Concentration Cheat Sheet
Fragrances are distinguished by their concentration levels, which affect their longevity and intensity:
Parfum (Extrait de Parfum): The most concentrated form, containing 20-30% aromatic compounds, offering the longest-lasting scent.
Eau de Parfum (EDP): Slightly less concentrated, with 15-20% aromatic compounds, providing a strong and lasting fragrance.
Eau de Toilette (EDT): Contains 5-15% aromatic compounds, offering a lighter and more subtle scent suitable for everyday wear.
Eau de Cologne (EDC): The lightest form, with 2-4% aromatic compounds, delivering a fresh and fleeting fragrance.
Making Sense of Scents
Fragrances are broadly categorized into several families, each with distinct characteristics. Depending on who you ask, this list can be slightly longer or shorter. Here are the primary scent categories we’ll stick with today:
Floral: These fragrances are dominated by the scent of flowers such as rose, jasmine, and lily, which are often described as romantic and feminine.
Amber: Moving away from the colonial connotations of its original name, ‘Oriental,’ These rich fragrances combine warm, spicy notes with sweet, balsamic, and amber tones, evoking a sense of mystery and opulence.
Woody: Characterized by scents of woods like cedar, sandalwood, and vetiver, these fragrances are often earthy, warm, and sophisticated.
Fresh: Including citrus, green, and aquatic notes, fresh fragrances are invigorating and crisp, giving a clean, sporty vibe.
Gourmand: Reminiscent of edible delights, gourmand fragrances feature notes like vanilla, chocolate, and coffee, creating a delicious and comforting scent profile.
Another thing to note is scents are composed of three layers of notes that create the overall fragrance experience. These layers are known as the top, middle (or heart), and base notes.
Top Notes: These are the initial scents you smell immediately after applying the fragrance. They evaporate quickly, typically within the first 5-15 minutes.
Middle (Heart) Notes: These form the core of the fragrance and emerge after the top notes dissipate. More robust and well-rounded, they define the main character of the fragrance and last longer than top notes, usually for several hours.
Base Notes: These are the final scents that develop once the top and middle notes have evaporated. Deep, rich, and long-lasting, they provide the foundation of the fragrance, often lingering for hours or even days.
When playing around with scents and teetering into the realm of layering, it’s best practice to start with the strongest and end with the lightest. Also, concentrate on complementary scents, so rather than layering two floral scents, try layering a floral with a woody scent or fresh with gourmand.
All Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrances
One surprising bit of information I’ve learned is not to fear synthetics when it comes to fragrance. I get it. The word synthetic is such a turn-off. I wouldn't want synthetic materials on my body or to ingest synthetic food products, so why would I consider inhaling something labeled synthetic?
The truth is synthetic lab-developed fragrances have revolutionized the perfume industry, offering a sustainable alternative to natural scents. Unlike traditional methods that rely on extracting essential oils from plants and animals, synthetic fragrances are created through complex chemical processes in a laboratory. As a reminder, a chemical is any substance with a defined composition. Water is a chemical. This approach not only broadens the palette of available scents but also addresses several environmental and ethical concerns associated with natural fragrance production.
The process of creating synthetic fragrances begins with identifying the molecular structures that make up a particular scent. Chemists then replicate these structures using various chemical reactions. This allows for the creation of specific fragrance notes that may be rare, endangered, or otherwise difficult to obtain from natural sources. Additionally, synthetic compounds can be designed to mimic the scent of natural ingredients or to create entirely new olfactory experiences that do not exist in nature.
One of the significant environmental benefits of synthetic fragrances is their lower impact on biodiversity. Natural fragrance production often involves harvesting large quantities of plant material or animal products, which can lead to habitat destruction and resource overexploitation.
For example, the production of natural sandalwood oil has contributed to the depletion of sandalwood trees. In contrast, synthetic fragrances eliminate the need for such practices, helping to preserve ecosystems and reduce the strain on natural resources. Additionally, synthetic production methods can minimize waste and pollution, further reducing the fragrance industry's environmental footprint.
When I was working on my home fragrance brand, Aina Studio, you could not have convinced me to consider anything other than essential oils in the ingredients list. But as you can see, with all things considered, I’m converted. However, I still hope to stumble across a nugget of animalic ambergris while casually walking a coastal beach line. iykyk 🤑
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The New Classics.
A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of hanging out with the Golden Meteors crew, a New York and Paris wholesale showroom showcasing emerging fragrance, beauty, grooming, and wellness brands. I was naturally drawn to the fragrances and fell in love with a few brands. First was D’Orsay. The brand is a true love story. Their unisex fragrances reflect the essence of the first scent created by the original founder, Alfred d'Orsay, in 1830 for himself and his beloved, Marguerite Blessington. Today’s G.A. Dandy or Not, created by Nose Sidonie Lancesseur, is an ode to Alfred’s absolute freedom and refusal of convention. It’s a really beautiful mix of grapefruit and orange blossom with an undertone of black tea. It gives mystery and rebellion with a little sex appeal. I would pair this with something backless, giving just a hint of seduction. Great for dim lights and date nights.
Next, we explored the brand AYOND. I think I’m drawn to the idea of duality and love in the creation of fragrance because this brand is, too, the love child of a very interesting couple. Shani van Breukelen, an African American and Dutch fashion alumni from Central Saint Martins, and Porter Yates, a native of Santa Fe and mechanical engineer with a focus on sustainability, founded AYOND in 2018. I immediately picked up on the nod to the Santa Fe desert with their trio of scents. It’s hard to pick a favorite, but I’ll focus on Rock Rose for now due to my affinity for the scent of roses. After a desert wildfire, the Rock Rose is the first flower to reemerge. It has an herbaceous and resinous note to it. This mixed with rich Turkish rose, bitter orange, and black pepper with the lingering notes of oak moss and cedarwood really coming through–it’s light, flowy, refreshing, and somehow extremely calming. A great daytime wear. I would pair this with a block print, puff sleeve dress made from organic Indian cotton and leather strappy sandals while hosting an outdoor lunch among the cactus and breeze.
Our final stop was at the brand Abel, which is doing really interesting experiments with how scent reacts with hormonal responses and combinations for those sensitive to scent. Their Green Cedar is truly a gem in the line. It combines two types of cedar from Texas and the Atlas Mountains with magnolia and cardamom. It’s a very expensive-smelling, low-key scent. And if you really love woody combinations and are tired of Santal 33, this is a great one to break from the crowd. It’s an everyday, jeans and tee shirt type of wear. I would pair it with a Laura Harrier-esque oversized button-up, relaxed jeans, and loafers.
Checkout 〰️
D’Orsay G.A. Dandy or Not Eau de Parfum 50mL $122;
Top: Guatemalan Cardamom, Grapefruit
Middle: Black Tea, Orange Blossom
Base: Virginia Cedar, Indonesian Patchouli, Leather accord
Vibe: Rebellious
Scene: Date Night
AYOND Rock Rose Eau de Parfum 50 mL $160;
Top: Bitter Orange, Black Pepper, Frankincense
Middle: Rock Rose Absolute, Turkish Rose Absolute, Galbanum Resin
Base: Patchouli, Oakmoss, Cedarwood
Vibe: Mellow
Scene: Intimate Day Party
Abel Green Cedar Eau de Parfum 15 mL $85;
Top: Magnolia, Cardamom
Middle: Cypriol, Guaiac Wood
Base: Cedar WoodVibe: Off-Duty Model
Scene: Saturday stroll and coffee date
➸ Final Thoughts
Perfumery is a blend of art, science, and emotion, offering a unique sensory experience that can evoke memories, enhance moods, and define personal style. Understanding the basics of perfumery, from scent categories and fragrance qualities to the science behind scent creation and its environmental benefits, provides a deeper appreciation for this timeless craft. The powerful link between scent and memory further underscores the profound impact of fragrances on our lives.
So take a moment to stop and smell the roses.
Until next time,
T.
Ps - This Substack is free, and I may receive commissions for purchases made through some linked and pinned products.
You had me at Exclamation perfume and Dr. Pepper lip balm. Thanks for the trip down fragrance memory lane!